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Sniper Service Guide

Hello, this is a short guide on servicing  the ASG Ultimate Urban Sniper Rifle. The principles behind this guide can be transferred over to any sniper rifle, the only difference being the dis/assembly of the parts.

So the main "aim / goal" of this was to straighten up the hop of the rifle. Take a look at Part 1 review of the sniper to see why, "Click Here". 

Whilst straightening the hop pressure I also wanted to clean out all excessive grease, in the hope of adding one or two fps but mainly to stop the excess grease going into the hop and effecting the accuracy of the rifle.

So disassemble your rifle first, YouTube is often your friend on people showing you how to do this. This blog will not cover taking a gun apart!

strip-down

The first item to be cleaned was the exterior of the trigger mech and all the main bolt receiver / upper. You can see below a before and after:

greasy

receiver-clean

I also decided to clean out the safety mech a little as there was a pool of "watery grease":

watery-grease

All I use for this process is some blue towel, kitchen roll or tissue is just as good, cigarette filters and ear buds.

I then went on to cleaning the inside of the bolt upper / receiver and then dismantled the cylinder. The inside of the cylinder was rammed with more towel, degreaser spray and then pulled back out several times:

inside-cylinder

Now onto the bolt components. There was a lot of grease inside and on parts that had no contact with any other materials in rest or in movement. Below is a before and after cleaning of the piston:

piston-before

piston-middle

I then applied a smaller than a pea sized blob of "Abbey Silicone Gun Grease" available "here":

piston-nearly-there

I use the same grease in AEG guns, usually applying a really small amount on the piston tracks and sometimes in the cylinder. I spread the grease around the piston head and used any excess amounts on the fins that touch the inside of the cylinder as shown below:

piston-final

I then added a small pea sized amount to the end of the spring guide, then use the spring to push the grease down over the spring guide:

spring-guide

Now re-assemble the bolt, the small amount of grease on the piston is enough to coat the inside of the bolt after a few rounds have been put through the gun. I will in the near future apply some PTFE plumbing tape on the threads of the cylinder head just for a slightly better air seal.

Next I coated the outside of the cylinder with about 2 pea sized blobs of the same grease. Then using a finger and thumb spread it all over the outside of the cylinder. This grease is a lot thicker than that which is on out of the factory and should last a lot longer and not spread and run around into unnecessary areas:

cylinder-outside

cylinder-outside-spreaded

With the main mechanical bits all taken care of I moved onto the hop unit. I had to use a vice to disassemble the hop barrel spacer / locking piece as shown below. Please take care with this and do not twist your barrel! Usually you can do this by hand,  but this one was in very tight. Good for air seal but bad for regular taking apart. There is a small amount of play between the barrel and locking piece so you can turn the hop unit which in turn "turns" the inner barrel causing no damage. Different sniper rifles have different take down methods as they use different kind of hop units here!

hop-screw-off

With the piece removed I then exposed the hop arm, this rifle uses a solid plastic that is unlikely to snap compared to other L96 variants. If yours does snap Patrol Base do sell metal alternatives:

hop arm

I then progressed to clean the hop rubber with an ear bud, check out the dirt:

rubber-clean

After this I then had the inner barrel by its self. I pushed through several cigarette filters. Once with degreaser spray then push through 2 or 3 dry ones to mop up excess fluids, then repeat until clean. It took 12 to 14 tips until a white clean tip came  through picking up no dirt!:

cleaning-barrel

After this, I then re assembled the hop unit, made sure the hop was being applied straight then locked the inner barrel back in place in reverse order of taking it apart.

So, with the gun put back together I went to the chrono. With no PTFE tape anywhere in the rifle the FPS has stayed the same. However! The bolt is far easier to use, first impressions say the gun is quieter and the FPS readings between each shot is now far more consistent. It won't be until the next game if I know whether or not the range has altered and the accuracy.

So that is the "essential" sniper clean up. You can go into more depth in cleaning the inside of the trigger mech, playing with different types of grease but I have found this works best for me. I perform this the night before every skirmish game no matter how often I go Airsoft, be it once every 2 weeks or once a month. This kind of service for an average Airsofter though is good to last 4 months or so of regular game play. But if you want to have consistent shots, I would do it once a month if you are a regular player.

So what's going to happen next to this rifle?

# One piece barrel spacer made from either paper or acrylic (want to be careful as it may make the front too heavy)
# Considering shortening the outer barrel and then applying a suppressor to keep overall same length but have a functioning suppressor that will be permanently on
# Another skirmish!

Hope you have enjoyed this longer than normal blog and we didn't take up too much of your internet on loading time 😉

- Karl


Written by Karl, who has written a total of 202 posts.


Posted in Patrol Base News | 2 Comments


2 thoughts on “Sniper Service Guide”

  1. J

    Considering buying this and a BAR-10 at some point and this guide is another very helpful source for maintenance and upgrading both of them.
    Eagerly awaiting the next installment as I was thinking about shortening my barrel also as well as a much needed DIY barrel spacer upgrade.

    Reply

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